quattroworld

have an 03 allroad with a tip trans that I'll be doing an 01E swap in. Trans slips going into reverse and RPM's hang as I'm accelerating and sometimes slips going into 4th and 5th. Trans swap came from audi4parts.com and is out of a '99 A6. Current plan is to completely pull the motor and trans out of the car so I can replace leaky seals and I think it'll just make the overall swap easier. I have a lift and plenty of tools, so it shouldn't be too big of an issue getting stuff out. I have to wait till spring until the snow leaves northern wisconsin and I can get the mustang out so i dont have to rush through this swap. so hopefully we have a mild winter which so far is what we got.

I have no plans at this point to do a K04 swap or any crazy power upgrades as it's mainly a daily driver and I have my mustang if I really wanted to have some fun. plus its way cheaper and easier to replace stuff hah.

This is what i'm working with.








i have no idea how the shifter stuff goes together, and I think im actually missing a cup and a bushing or two. not entirely sure




Right now this is the list of things I still need to buy/order before I tear the car apart.
Flywheel bolts
pressure plate bolts
clutch disc
wheel bearing
pinch bolts
trans fluid
brake fluid
front brakes
rear brakes
valve cover gasket
cam seals
throwout bearing
pilot bearing
alignment sleeves
SAI blockoff plates
starter
alternator
spider hose
motor mounts
turbo gaskets
hollow out down pipes
flush heater core

anything else I should look at replacing while its out?


These are a couple links I'll be relying on while doing this swap to make sure I get everything I need as I don't think the swap kit came with everything, but some of it should just be replaced for maintenance reasons anyways.

[url]http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/385189-Project-Papa-Smurf-Version-2-0-Better-Bigger-Badder[/url]

haha, the fricking pinch bolt... i need to replace a wheel bearing so im going to pull both pinch bolts on both sides and it'll just make things easier with the axles, and any fixes in the future as i dont think theyve ever been removed
[url]http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-information-base/233225-pinch-bolt-removal-made-easy-pics.html[/url]

01E parts swap thread
[url]http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/560553-01e-swap-parts-thread[/url]

random thread 01e swap
[url]http://www.audiforum.ca/a6-s6-rs6-71/tiptronic-6-speed-manual-transmission-swap-diy-59468/[/url]





and the random slight set back one afternoon


well, i think i have everything now. starter will be ordered when i get it off the car, and alternator will be here monday or tuesday.






i did find a boogered up bolt hole when I was testing out the shifter, so I'll have to drill and tap it. not sure what happened here during removal, but either someone messed up or it got ripped out in shipping lol


well, let us begin.




cleaned out the hatch so i could put all the pieces staying with the car, in a safe spot




dont froget to set up your work area!



unclipped and disconnnected the washer nozzles to prep the hood for removal



take this clipped on cover off to release the washer nozzle harness and line from the hood



have someone help if you can, remove the 4 bolts holding the hinges to the hood, unclip the prop rod, and remove.
4 x 13mm nuts




remove the battery cover and the rest of the cowl cover



remove intake tube from bumper and intake box



disconnect battery and tape up connections so they dont accidentally make it back to the battery terminals



remove MAF and Y-pipe
3 x 10mm bolts



remove the TCU after changing ECU softcoding and programming ABS module.
remove 2 phillips screws and pull off kick panel on passenger side



pull up sill plate cover (all clipped in) and then pull up the carpet and pull out the TCU box



open up TCU box and remove TCU



sending the ecu in for tuning. remove bolts holding cover on. (leave the back one in, and you can squeeze the ecu out. you will also need to unclip the metal bar going across the ecu
4 x 8mm bolts




drill out the far left 2 tamper proof bolts if to get the ECU to slide out of the case



jumping around a little bit, but I then moved to under the car.

removed the O2 sensors
2 x 17mm




started removing the exhaust at the mid pipe.
4 x 17mm nuts


you can remove the hangers easily with a pry bar. just put the prybar behind the hanger and slowly force it off. the stock exhaust is pretty heavy, so have a helper or keep a jackstand under it.



then removed the heat shields for the driveshaft
8 x 10mm



loosened the D/S carrier nuts. i also put a pry bar in between the U-Joint on the D/S so I could loosen the driveshaft bolts without it spinning
2 x 13mm



removing the rear D/S bolts
6 x 6mm allens



moved up to the front to remove the d/s shield from the trans, and also the d/s to trans bolts
2 x T45 torx
6 x 6mm allen




might take a little persuasion for the joints to pop out of the diff and trans



take the two axle covers off. 3 bolts per side
6 x 6mm Allens



then remove the rear axle to diff bolts. 6 per axle.
12 x M9 triple square


remove the bolts holding the diff to the rear carrier
3 x 8mm Allen


remove the 3 bolts holding the front left bracket to the diff
3 x 8mm allen



diff is somewhat heavy with fluid still in it. I twisted the diff, so pass side was down and drivers side was up, and the axles popped out and diff came out quite easily





then moved up to the front.



i removed 12 bolts from each inner fender, drivers and passenger
24 x T20 Torx



once you pull the inner fender back, you will need to take off two more t20 bolts. there are 4 bolts that appear to be holding the bumper to the supports, two will have large flat heads, leave those two, but remove the top and bottom ones, on each side of the car
4 x T20 Torx


There are then 3 nuts per side holding the front bumper to the fenders
6 x 10mm



remove the 3 lower front grill covers, they just pull straight off. Once those are removed there are two allen bolts that go UP into the bumper bar.
2 X 8mm Allen


reach behind the fog lights and disconnect them



With a strong hand, you should be able to pull just the bumper cover straight forward and off. Be careful, you still need to disconnect the washer fluid lines that supply the headlight sprayers. if your tank is full, itll spill a lot


disconnect the ambient air temp sensor, and also remove the bolts holding the power steering cooler on.
1 x 10mm



remove the 5 bolts holding the fan bracket on, and also the brackets for the A/C condensor
4 x 10mm
1 x T20 Torx



the fan and p/s cooler should swing out of the way, along with the A/C condensor



disconnect the horns on both sides, and also the sensor for the a/c line on the pass side




disconnect the hood release cable. it just pushed towards the rear of the car and its off



disconnect headlight harness from both sides



remove cover from P/S reservoir, and then disconnect these three connectors



remove the bolts holding the bumper supports to the frame rails
8 x T45 torx



disconnect the sensor on the lower radiator hose, and also disconnect the lower radiator hose.



disconnect the upper radiator hose



remove the trans cooler lines. one per line in the radiator, and then one bracket near the bottom of the radiator
3 x 10mm




there are 4 bolts on the top of the core support, between the headlight bolts and the fender. remove two on each side of the car. There are then 2 more bolts under the tip of each fender than need to be taken out. Once those 6 bolts are removed, the front core support and radiator can be removed
4 x T27 torx
2 x T27 torx




everything off thus far



Time to remove the bi-pipes on the front of the timing cover.
2 x 10mm hex




There there are 4 hose clamps that need to be loosened
4 x 7mm hose clamps



next to go was the snub mount
3 x 8mm allen



then i removed the bolt holding the trani cooler lines to the trani cooler on the back of the drivers side intercooler.
1 x 6mm allen



removed a trani cooler line bracket on the pass side of the motor. I also removed the 10mm bolt on the front of the motor holding the lines with the a/c lines. I then disconnected the trani lines where they bolted together under the alternator, just to give myself some extra space.
2 x 10mm hex



Next comes the a/c compressor and lines. you will also need to remove the coolant hose that runs across the front of the engine and up past the oil filter housing. Also, remove the oil filter to clear the lines. Dont forget to unclip the connector on the compressor, and the one that goes through the lines and down to the top of the oil pan.
3 x 13mm Hex
1 x 17mm hex to release the belt tensioner

top of the pan





wrap up the lines and condenser off to the side so they do not get damaged.



then i had access to remove the power steering line.



then i disconnected the 3 fuel lines. made sure to take pics and mark where they went. I cut the one clamp and the other two were regular hose clamps. Took some force but they all came off




moved down to the axles. removed axle covers from both sides.
6 x 6mm Allen




Next was the 6 per side axle bolts.
12 x M9 triple square



Next, remove the axle nuts
2 x 1 1/16" hex


From there, you can remove both front axles with some persuasion. I am replacing my wheel bearings, so I had the pinch bolt out from up top, made it a little easier.



next to go was the engine mount nuts
2 x 13mm hex

its hidden in there, promise


I had to drop the sway bar in order to get some good access at the nuts
4 x 13mm hex



next up were the trans mounts
4 x 13mm hex



moved back up to the front of the engine. out came the alternator
1 x 13mm hex
1 x 8mm Allen



back of the alternator sported a 13mm nut for the power wire and single wire plug
1 x 13mm hex



here we are at now



next to go was the starter wire and single wire plug. route that wire off to the pass side of the motor and out of the way. there is also a ground strap on the left side of the motor, as seen in this pic
1 x 13mm nut hex
1 x 13mm hex bolt



went to the top of the motor and disconnected the vacuum line connected at the firewall


disconnected this vacuum line as well, on the drivers side, under the silver canister by the p/s reservoir (honestly no idea what it is haha)


cut the clip of the vacuum hose right above it as well and pulled it off




Next i realized i needed to pull the ecu box top off to get at all the connectors. you can sneak an 8mm socket with 1/4" ratchet in to get the back bolt and it pops up. Then remove all the connectors from inside.
1 x 8mm hex



then find some goodies inside!



remove this connector from the side of the master cylinder and fish it out with the ECU wires



there are then 2 metric caps holding on the connectors to the firewall on the drivers side. remove those and the whole panel that has all the connectors. you should be able to put the whole ecu harness up onto the motor now.
2 x 10mm hex




remove the battery hold down and battery
1 x 13mm hex




remove the fabric protector from the heater hoses, and disconnect both heater hoses



should look something like this now


there is a single p/s line on the back of the motor you will need to disconnect. i got to mine as i was pulling the motor, but you could probably get to it now too. you can see it on the back of the motor with a white dot on it. you'll need a 19mm and a 17mm open end wrench




i then removed the SAI pump, and hoses, you can see it missing here
5 x 5mm Allen




lets get cleaned up and inside the car now
to remove the wood bezel, grab it at the rear and pull straight up and towards the back of the car.
As for the shift knob, put the car in neutral, push the silver collar down as far as it will go (i used a screw driver to break it free from the knob), and then pull the silver thumb button OUT and pull up with some good force and the knob will pop off.




there are 4 tabs on the outside of the aluminum bezel, carefully open them up and take it off



there are 4 more clips holding the circuit board to the base of the shifter, carefully undo those clips and then unclip the connector going to it



there are 5 bolts to take out now. (the gold ones)
5 x 10mm hex



with those out of the way, you can release the park safety cable by pushing it towards the passenger side with a screwdriver. remove the connector at the front of the shifter base also




there are two white tabs per side that will need to be depressed now, (they are on top of one another) and the shifter box will go out the bottom of the car.






Its cherry pickin time!




there is a lifting point on the drivers side rear, right where the SAI pump was.



the front one is on the pass side front head.



start the lift! keep an eye out for all conenctors/wires/hoses that may be in the way. I used a jack with a piece of wood under the trans to get the trans mounts above their holes and to help move it forward until it cleared their mounts.


you will need to feed the heater hoses through the bottom of the firewall as you move the engine/trans out




oops, i missed two connectors on the transmission. that are under the drivers side axle. one is a normal PIA audi clip, and the other you need to twist 180 degrees counter clockwise to undo.








now time to get some done on the motor/trans


remove the heatshields on the downpipes
12 x 5mm Allen


also remove the Downpipes on both sides.
8 x 17mm Hex (flange nuts)
2 x 13mm hex (springs for exhaust hangers)




remove the heat shields from the trans mounts, and also the trans mounts
6 x 10mm hex (heat shield)
6 x 8mm Allen (mounts)



remove the bolt holding the trans cooler lines on, and also remove the speed sensor connector. There are also a few more brackets holding the lines on going to the front of the engine.
1 x 13mm hex
1 x 5mm allen
2 x 10mm hex




now time for the torque converter. locate the rubber grommet on the front of the bellhousing and pop it off. use a 24mm 12 point socket and breaker bar and turn the motor until you can see the TC bolts through the hole.
3 x T55 torx
1 x 24mm 12point Socket




time to remove the trans. there is a connector hiding behind the oil return line on the top, get that! 1 x 10mm bolt. The next bolt is a nut a bolt right under it.
1 x 10mm hex
1 x 16mm hex (nut)
1 x 8mm allen (bolt)



There is a bolt holding on the starter and threaded into the trans on the pass side. you can reach this from the front with a long extension.
1 x 8mm allen



Three allens across the bottom on the front
3 x 8mm allen



There are now 6 more bolts across the front.
6 x 16mm Hex




before you take all the bolts are out, make sure both trans and engine are on the ground. the trans is a HEAVY SOB!! remove all the bolts, and then separate the combo



clean up and take a break for the night.



i took the time to clean out the bay with some degreaser and plenty of scrubbing



Ill update this hopefully in the next day or so. I went through a server migration and a couple new exchange servers at work so i havn't had time to work on the car or get pics uploaded. Hopefully soon!


so bear with me, i kinda jumped around on the project.

time to do the VC gaskets and intake manifold gaskets
so there are 2 charge pipes, one on each side of the motor going over the top of the valve cover. the pipes are held in with O-rings, so they will slide right out.
2 x 10mm hex





I then removed the EGT sensors, and the SAI sensor, this is on the backside of the intake manifold on the passenger side.
2 x 10mm hex

Intake manifold will need to have the wiring harness removed prior to removal. Need to take off the bracket on the TB boot to get all of the wires loose. You can pull the loom back on the Pass and Drivers side towards the rear of the engine and let them dangle.
2 x 8mm hex for the TB bracket



The intake manifold will have 17 bolts total, with one bolt on the drivers side front holding a sensor down. Make sure to tape the intake ports up so you dont drop anything down them.
17 x 5mm Allen




Now we can hit the valve covers. There is also one bolt on the front timing cover that needs to come out that is holding onto the valve cover.
16 x 10mm Hex (8 per side)
1 x 5mm Allen



there are a ton of how-to's on the valve cover gasket replacement, so im just going to post some pics of it.
Cam chain tensioners
8 x T30 torx (4 per)

Cam Sensor (Drivers side rear head)
2 x 10mm Hex









went for the starter removal, this is easy while the engine is out.

remove the intake pipe on passenger side turbo
1 x 7mm hex
2 x 5mm Allen


With the trans already removed, the starter should fall right out.




with that out, i took off the engine mounts. was able to get these with ease using a 1/4 ratchet and deepwell 13mm socket.
2 x 13mm Hex



then moved on to removing the SAI crap. (pictures are of SAI parts removed)
6 x 5mm Allen (3 on one side, 2 on the other)




Picked up some 034 block off plates. using the supplied hardware install them.
5 x 5mm Allen






i then removed the automatic flywheel
8 x 17mm hex

After the flywheel is removed, take off the spacer that was used. You do not need this for the manual flywheel. Mine came off with a twist, ive seen some people say it takes some heat. Be careful, there is a seal behind it.




Make sure you have the right flywheel bolts, they should stick out about so far. YOU NEED NEW ONES! ABSOLUTELY NEED NEW FLYWHEEL BOLTS!



I put in a new pilot bearing as well into the used flywheel. Then put the flywheel onto the crank and start some bolts. The flywheel will only go on ONE way, it helps to have a second set of hands to rotate the flywheel as you put in a bolt.



Torque specs for the flywheel bolts are 44ft/lbs and then turn them 180 degrees. Torque them down, mark the bolts, and then start turning. I found it was easiest to do this by myself with the Cam lock bar in place.



Make sure you have the clutch in the correct orientation. Nothing like putting it in backwards and having to pull the trans to flip it over. (RS4 clutch and pressure plate)






its a mess... an organized mess





I didn't want to spend the money on aftermarket downpipes, so i hollowed mine out for right now.






started throwing on the shifter linkage onto the trans






i then threw the spacer onto the motor. The one i got from the 99 A6 was the same as the TIP one off my 03 allroad. same part numbers and everything. i used the one off the 99 just because it came with, although i think it would have worked with either



Made sure the new throw out bearing was in correctly and also that the slave cylinder was in correctly



with some help, bolt the trans up to the engine.



make sure to use the manual trans mounts, and not the ones off the TIP






next was to lift up the motor and secure the rest of the trans bolts





as long as the engine was up, put on the drivers side engine mount




before the pass motor mount goes in, we need to put in the starter. so remove the intake pipe from the turbo, then slide in the starter and mount it.




once the starter is in, put the intake tube back in, and then put the motor mount in




moved onto putting the trans mounts on



always hear about people flushing their heater cores, so perfect time to do it. didnt find much, but hey its something




leveled out the trans on the ground and began to fill it with fluid. fill plug is on the drivers side, in front of the axle



make sure your drain plugs are tight.....




moved onto putting the downpipes on. One of them broke at the flex pipe so I guess ill be getting it either welded up or getting some new DP's




forget what this sensor is, but make sure to plug it in. its on the drivers side of the trans, almost up at the block.



dont forget the speed sensor as well




make sure all your intake ports are clear of debris. even if you had tape over them, double and triple check.



put on the intake gaskets




place the intake down and secure it



I ended up making my own spider hose, and now was a good time to get it hooked up




threw the intake pipes on that go over the valve covers. clean them up so not to damage the O-rings





run all of the engine harness back across the intake and plug everything back in




im going to deal with this reverse light later...



the clutch line install....

find this grommet under the brake booster, behind the rack and pinion, remove it.


it may be packed with crud on top




this is what the hardline looks like, and im holding it generally about how it will be installed.



you can try fishing the line up from the bottom and over to this grommet, but its kind of a PIA. I ended up removing the lines from the master cylinder and then removing the brake booster and master as one unit to make this easier. You need to disconnect the pedals anyways from it, so it was only a couple extra bolts




to remove the brake reservoir, push down on the clip on the bottom of the reservoir, and then push/pull/tug/beat/swear/cuss the stupid thing to the passenger side and it will pop off of the master cylinder. Oh, i also removed the 10mm bolt that helps align the reservoir.
1x 10mm Hex



remove the rod from the master cylinder and brake pedal from inside the car. Try to keep the nut about where it is at or mark it somehow
1 x 19mm Hex
1 x 16mm Hex



now, you dont have to remove the nuts like i did, lesson learned. just remove the torx bolts for the booster and MC and it comes out as one unit. Twist it towards the drivers side and it should come up and out with some persuasion
2 x T45 Torx (I had to use a vice grips on the one becase it was kinda tight on the bottom, but that was enough to break it loose and unthread with my fingers)
Brake lines are 11mm AND 12mm. Make sure to use a flare wrench.





Back inside the car we can pull out the pedal assembly now. Make sure to undo the brake switch and gas pedal connectors, also pull the one bolt holding the pedals up to the steering column
1 x 5mm Allen



To make life easier I removed the bolt holding the steering shaft to the Rack and Pinion. after removing the bolt and separating the two, the shaft can be pushed up into the steering column to give a ton more room to maneuver the pedals.
1 x T55 torx




Pull the automatic assembly out. They look almost identical, except one thing. The sensors for the A6 (left) have a perfect circle, while the Allroad assembly has a circle with reliefs cut on top and bottom. I didnt notice this until after everything was installed. I would recommend switching the pedals over to the Allroad assembly to avoid any pains going down the road.



now you can get a better idea of how the slave clinder hard line is supposed to be ran. There is a second grommet right under the one that the hard line is pointing at (youll see it when youre in there) that needs to be removed also.



time to put the pedal assembly in.



here you can see the two holes where the grommets needed to be removed




and line connected



This threw me for a loop for a while. Where in the F does it go??



Ooooo half of it is already installed on the pedals, this is just a piece of hose up to the Brake fluid Reservoir







There should be a provision for the clutch master cylinder on the brake fluid reservoir, cut the end off and slide the line over it.



TA-DA!




next i replaced some suspension bits. these were Mahle HD tie rod ends.



as well as replaced brakes all the way around and new pinch bolts




solid shift mount came in from JHM




and ready to go back home





make sure to get the heater hoses under the firewall and then up and through it.





get it far enough back, but still far enough forward so you can see the salve cylinder and bleeder.



dont forget to hook back up the power steering line



once you bleed the clutch you can move the engine the rest of the way back and start hooking stuff back up






the shifter is straight forward, install the 4 retaining nuts holding the box up to the body, 2 for the sound deadening, and then the trim and knob



oh so close...


in my infinite wisdom i assumed the A6 and allroad pedal brackets were the same. WRONG. :( the allroad has this notched area for the sensors, and the A6 has perfect circles. What I needed was a 99 A6 brake sensor for a manual. Then I needed to cut the harness from my current brake switch and rewire it to the A6 manual one. nothing crazy, just a random hurdle to figure out.


shoulda caught it in my previous pics....



back under the hood for the pin #39 wire.
grab the bigger of the 2 ECU plugs, and pull the purple pin/rod out



The top part of the connector should slide out. Its marked on the connector what pins are what, so find #39 and push it down into the slot. You can see my red wire I used, 5th from the top.


I then crimped over the wire holders with a small screwdriver. close it all back up and run this wire down past the connectors under the ECU and into the cabin.




the next couple steps seem to have a couple different ways to do it, but this is what I did. wiring up the clutch safety switch.
find all of the relays under the drivers side dash and pull the 2X10mm nuts holding it up.



with both of them pulled down, remove relay #53. it is at the very top.



release the clips holding the connector in and push it backwards. remove the Pin from the connector that has the brown/white wire.


Add an extension onto this wire and then put it back into the relay connector. (tape off the old wire that ran into the relay connector) If you have the connector for the clutch switch, it should have the same wire as the one from the relay. Solder those together. Then run the other wire from the clutch switch connector to a ground. youre done here. (This clutch switch is the one that is on the back of the pedal, and has a metal bracket that it is connected to. )



Next i made a harness for the reverse lights, wrapped them in techflex and ran them into the cabin. One line goes to 12v keyed ignition, and the other goes to a blue/red wire.






kind of hard to show exactly whats going on here but ill do my best to draw it out.
The ECU 39 wire goes to the clutch switch on the front of the clutch, i wired it up to the red/green wire on the clutch switch connector.
The other wire from the clutch switch goes over to the brake switch. There are 4 wires on the brake switch, I tapped into the wire that has 12v with key on, and 0v with key off.






Once all of that is done you should be set to start the car. putting the driveshaft, rear diff, axles, exhaust, front clip, are all the same as the automatics and super straight forward. I didn't run into any other quirks that are worth mentioning really.