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TT Mk2 + TT RS
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Welcome to the club!
Posted by: JohnLZ7W (302) on 2017-01-18 02:14:52
In Reply to: Introduction: new TT-RS owner, longtime Audi fan. Some noob questions + pics. posted by nnnick on 2017-01-17 20:45:49

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The TTRS really is a great platform right out of the box, even for light track duty. Really hard to find anything else that can do everything as competently as it does. I'm just past 5yrs in and 58k miles and absolutely love mine :)

To answer your questions...
1) Some people have used a tinted vinyl wrap on the outside of the lens to cover the amber reflector and the few pics I've seen it really does seem to work. Also, there have been some success stories on heating and separating the housings using the normal techniques of baking for a bit and prying apart the glue... Let us know how that works out! ;)

2) It does seem like all of the aftermarket downpipes have just sort of disappeared off of the market. Not sure why, small market and not worth keeping inventory I guess. I'm still using the stock downpipe. I like the idea of having the primary cat further away from the turbo just to keep EGTs down and remove the restriction. However, I ran a 42DD 3" downpipe on my mk1 and had issues (the pipe was great, engine mounts, clearances, smells, etc) so that was always off the table on my RS.

But to get some added sound...

Easiest thing to do is the flapper mod so that the exhaust valve is open all the time and not triggered based on RPM or with the sport button. You may find it convenient to tone it down sometimes so maybe that's not an option. I've had mine modded since day 1 and it never really bothers me, even long roadtrips.

The secondary cat delete pipes are IMO a must have for this car. I installed my Milltek pipes the day after I got the car home... Actually had them sitting in the garage for a couple months before I had the car :) Several vendors make them: CTS, Milltek, 034... they're all essentially the same.... support your favorite vendor. These will not throw any faults as they're after the post-cat O2 sensor and are therefore not monitored. But, being in California you'd need to pass a visual inspection so might need to swap in the stock cats every couple of years. Easy enough to do on jack stands, maybe even on ramps if you're skinny enough ;) Also, I suppose you could gut the stock cats and still pass visual although I'd think that would carry additional legal risks.

Finally a third option with keeping the factory exhaust is to remove the resonators just prior to the muffler. I did this a couple years ago now and it certainly does give the exhaust a more aggressive tone without making it unbearably loud day-to-day. Cold starts sound epic with all three of the above mods :)

3) I don't have experience with spacers but moved to an et45 wheel so 7mm further out and it does seem just about right for stance. There is a small plastic tab right at the join between the rear bumper and fender that appears to serve no purpose. Most folks running a more aggressive offset have trimmed that tab back for some clearance.

4) I am a big fan of the shifter bushings; both the cable-end and cable-bracket bushings. Both tighten the shift action up just a bit. It's never going to feel as positive as a direct linkage but I actually find it to be quite good, especially with a slightly heavier shift knob. There are no short-shift kits available and really you probably don't want one as it's easy to out-shift the synchros, especially 2nd to 3rd.

5) Brakes really depend on the track and level of tune. My local track and the stock brakes just keep up with the stock power. If I chip it I assume I'm also buying Girodisc rotors. For the most part the weak point is the front rotors, there's just not enough air gap for adequate cooling. I've built a set of extended scoops similar to what Cantrell offers and I run without the front splash shields and that helps quite a bit. Stainless lines, track pads, titanium shims and high-temp fluid (Torque 700) and it does quite well. I've also upgraded the rear brakes to use the larger C5 RS6 rotors to help shift brake bias a bit and distribute the load a bit more. It all helps.

Some other mods to consider, just simple stuff to tighten up the car... I've recently installed the 034 dogbone insert and the 034 rear subframe inserts and I'm quite impressed with the latter so far. They seem to make a pretty big impact on limiting rear roll on turn-in and the car just feels more responsive through direction changes.

I'm also a fan of the MSS springs. I had H&R coilovers on my mk1 TT and really liked the added roll stiffness from the rear to help the car turn-in so the MSS stuff was really dialed in to what I was looking for. I just have the fixed height fronts and sport rear springs and the car handles great and ride is better than stock. But for handling there are a lot of options, just depends on what your priorities are. Really out of the box in sport mode is pretty good on track.

Oh one last thing... the chassis is really sensitive to alignment and the factory recommended spec is terrible! General consensus is max out the front camber with 0 toe and the rear is ok at factory specs.

Sorry for the wall of text! :)
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